For long lenses, you need a fair amount of space.Īim the camera so the center AF point is centered on the focus target, and align the camera so the sensor plane is parallel to the focus target (using the sight gates in the LensAlign, or by ensuring both are level for the SpyderLensCal).
If you are adjusting a zoom lens, base the distance on the longest focal length, and perform the calibration at that longest focal length (note that the new 1D X allows you to calibrate a zoom lens with two separate adjustment values, for the long and wide ends). Note that the distance of 25x focal length is independent of sensor size – 7 feet would be appropriate for an 85mm lens on APS-C, APS-H, or FF. 85mm x 25 = 2.1 m = 7 feet), although anywhere within 5-50x focal length will work. The distance between the calibration tool and the camera should be approximately 25 times the focal length of the lens (e.g. Set up the tool on a table or ideally a small tripod, and set your camera up on a stable tripod. The easiest way to perform an AFMA is with a commercial tool, such as the LensAlign MkII or the DataColor SpyderLensCal (see the discussion below for an explanation of common failings of printable test charts and moiré patterns, and a reasonable workaround). This tip comprises two main sections, a practical summary of the procedure for those who want to dive right in, followed by more technical discussion, including some DIY options for a testing setup. AFMA will have the greatest benefit for lenses with fast apertures (f/2.8 and wider), because the thin depth of field at wide apertures makes even small focus errors more evident. It is a feature that is present only on certain models of Canon dSLRs (currently, the 50D, 7D, 5D Mark II, 1D Mark III, 1D Mark IV, 1Ds Mark III, and 1D X).
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#HOW TO AUTOFOCUS MICROADJUST REIKAN FOCAL TIPS SERIES#
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